Just how much more rain is going to fall? Having seen off not-so-dry January, it now looks like flood-alert February is going to continue to bring more of the same.
Quite frankly, I’m sick of getting soaked to the skin on the daily walk home from work and only wish that the British climate would hurry up and change for something a little more equatorial, less aquatic. At this rate, I’ll be swapping walking boots for an inflatable kayak as many roads round these parts have turned into urban reservoirs or been closed altogether.Since gardening is temporarily off the agenda, attention has turned to the unfinished wood panelling project begun before Christmas. Yes, where was I on that one?
Ah, the long radiator wall. On the face of it, this looks fairly straight forward now the rad has been removed but now that I’ve had a closer look then perhaps not.
| BEFORE - the rad wall |
| What I'm hoping for on this wall |
For starters there’s the pipework, BT box and fibre optic broadband cable to factor in along the bottom rail. I’ve had to carefully plot the location of these on the lower pieces of MDF then cut out shaped sections to accommodate them. Do this first as you will not be able to dry fit anything until the lower sections can be neatly positioned.
| Template and cut round any fixtures |
Secondly, the wall is long. Over 3.5 metres long. Most timber or MDF sheets are sold in 2.4 metre lengths so to maintain the overall symmetry, the wall has been divided into two equal sections with all measurements being calculated from a central point for the longer horizontal pieces. Draw a line down the wall at this central point.
Once the shaped horizontal rails have been stuck in place at the bottom of the wall, position the first vertical panels at either end of the entire wall. I have used 5 verticals in total in the design of this section.
Using the middle line drawn down the wall, centre the third vertical panel across the line and stick in place.
Measure the available gap between the end panel and the central vertical panel. Divide in two to arrive at the mid-point then draw another line down the wall. Do the same on both sides. These pencil lines will mark the place at which the remaining two vertical panels are centred.
Voila – all vertical panels should be evenly spaced along the wall giving a nice symmetrical look to things.
Voila – all vertical panels should be evenly spaced along the wall giving a nice symmetrical look to things.
| Five evenly spaced vertical pieces |
Finally, stick the two horizontal rails on top of the vertical panels taking care that these join together in the middle of the vertical piece.
| Horizontal pieces joined across centre vertical |
As before I have finished the panels with some pine moulding inserted into each square section, cut to form a neat frame with mitred corners.
| Add pine mouldings to each square |
Topping the entire section with a length of pine stripwood from B & Q:
Then finished off with Cheshire Mouldings dado rail as it’s been almost impossible to find a rebated dado rail that would fit neatly on the top of the MDF horizontal pieces.
Lastly, lightly sand any bits sticking out of panel joins then use decorators caulk to fill any unsightly gaps. Re-sand the caulked joints once dry. Hurrah! At last the rad wall is ready for priming.



