LIBRARY BOOKCASE - BASE

As before, we’re building our library bookcase before painting the lounge so that we won’t have to worry about scuffing any of the walls in the process. With design plan in hand then to begin at the very beginning what is needed to support the cabinet foundation is a plinth.

The cabinet I purchased from Amazon (Vladon Cuba) for our bookcase base doesn’t come with a plinth as it is designed to be suspended on a wall. But a simple plinth can be constructed from timber on which to sit this cabinet.

Vladon Cuba wall hung cabinet

This plinth is made from pine strips 70 mm high and 18 mm thick, about skirting board height. Cut the timber strips to make a rectangular shape the size of the recessed gap. Add two evenly spaced cross members so that any weight placed on to the plinth is distributed otherwise your cabinet might sag over time.

Rectangular shape with cross members

Use heavy duty angled brackets to brace together each corner section. You wouldn’t want it falling apart like a timber Tory party, would you?

Angled brackets to brace the corners

Fit brackets when plinth is on a level surface

To save time, money and paint, I’ve only given the front face a couple of coats of black furniture paint as this is the only visible part once the cabinet goes on top.

Paint your plinth then position

Cabinet base should overhang the plinth

And talking of which, it’s time for a bit of flat pack therapy. In a perversely masochistic way, everyone secretly loves flat pack assembly - those incomprehensible instructions, hieroglyphic diagrams and that sexy little leftover piece at the end. Did the earth move for you darling? Yes. No. Maybe but where does this shiny bit go?

New masters degree in flat pack furniture assembly

You lie on the carpet after successfully assembling your furniture with a huge grin on your face and that all-over glow – yes, I did it! And unlike my lardy bits, it doesn’t wobble!

Darling, I think I'm almost there...

I mentioned earlier that the width of the recess gap is 179 cm but this cabinet is 181 cms long and that additional 2 cms is the difference between ‘ready-made’ and ‘bespoke’.

That's never going to fit the gap

To get the item to fit our gap, some do-it-yourself surgical intervention is required or a ‘hack’ as the internet calls it. Pssst! - don’t ever say ‘hack’ near the other half unless wearing a full visor bike helmet – you might get a black eye! He hates this term with a passion.

Shortening the cabinet with a 'hack'

Back to the ‘hack’ which is simply this:

• Build the unit’s carcass complete with internal shelves but leave the top, back panel and one side unattached.
• Carefully cut top and bottom panels by the surplus 2 cms.
• Shorten the back board panel to fit the new length
• Place the completed carcass on top of the plinth in its final position.
• Slide the back panel into place.
• Glue the unattached side piece onto the bottom panel of the carcass. It should be tight against the recess wall.
• Apply glue to the top edge of the side piece ready for the top to be stuck onto it.
• Finally lower the top panel into position ensuring it is firmly adhered to the side panel.

The cabinet should now perfectly fit into the gap.

Put partly assembled carcass in the gap

Then add the top panel

Two things to point out about this ‘hack’ and these are as follows:

This surgical procedure should only be attempted on a cabinet side that does not have a door fitted to it otherwise you would also have to re-size the door which would make it rather complicated. In this case, I’ve decided that the first compartment of the cabinet will double up as a wood store so no door required.

Assembly can only be fully completed once the cabinet is ready for final fitting because after the side panel is glued into position, you may not be able to get it out again.

Here’s one we prepared earlier, ready for final fitting once the walls get painted.

Not fully fitted as painting yet to be done

The perfect kitty house