| First wall section to panel |
With pre-cut MDF pieces quick progress can be made in putting up these sections.
Begin by dry fitting. Place your horizontal/vertical pieces into position against the wall to double check measurements and get a feel for what your panel squares will look like.
If there are no alterations needed then the next step is fix them permanently to the wall otherwise nip, tuck, sand as required. As our walls are relatively flat having been plastered only recently then I’m moving straight onto adhesives. Guns out, CT1 to the ready! This stuff really does stick anything to any surface.
Bottoms up! Start by sticking the lower most horizontal piece above the skirting followed by each side vertical and lastly the top horizontal bar.
Press each bit firmly into place for around 5-10 minutes to give the CT1 a chance to bond. With a nice flat wall there should be no unsightly gaps. Use panel pins to secure if adhesive isn’t enough to keep it in place. Leave to dry.
Now originally, I primed each piece individually before sticking to the wall but that seemed like an almighty time consuming faff so from now on, I’m priming in situ.
| OMG! This is taking forever... |
Once everything has dried solidly, time to add the panel mouldings to the inside edge of the central square. I’m using a 9 mm barrel moulding – the same thickness as my MDF so that it doesn’t stick out.
Panel mouldings typically come in lengths that are 2.4 metres long. To work out how many lengths of moulding you'll need for your panel inserts, add up all the linear measurements of each square to arrive at a total length then divide by 2.4. Remember to include a bit extra to allow for mitred cuts. I usually round everything up as my thinking is that more is better than not enough.
| Available from Covers Builders Merchants, Chichester |
| Small but perfectly formed |
You’re using this moulding to essentially create a picture frame that sits inside your panel square. To do this, a mitre box is needed as all corners will need cutting at an angle to form a nice tidy joint.
| Use a mitre box for perfect corner joints |
Cut the moulding to the required measurement then mitre each end. Finely sand any ragged edges then dry fit into position. Repeat until you have four panel strips to form your frame. When you are satisfied that each strip fits neatly into position, glue into place. Leave to dry.
| Dry fit then stick into place |
Next. Inspect your handiwork closely and fill any hairline gaps with decorator’s caulk. Leave to dry for a few hours or overnight then sand caulked joints or any uneven areas with fine grit sandpaper.
Once everything is as soft as a baby’s bottom, apply 2 coats of primer to wall and wood. I’ve used some leftover Zinsser BIN 1-2-3 for this applied with a small gloss sponge roller and brush.
| Looking good so far |
Stand back for visual assessment. Does anything look wonky or in need of TLC other than you that is? Nope. Great!
Well, that’s the first bit done. And now dear readers, I’m swapping pine bead for pinny as it’s time to head to the kitchen to throw together the family fruit cake for Crimbo. OMG - only 2 weeks to go!
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